A Return to the Land of High Passes: This Time, as a Family
Seven years ago, it was a tale of adrenaline, roaring engines, and a bachelor motorbike adventure to the heart of Leh. In 2025, we returned to the mystical land of high passes, but this expedition was a different chapter. It was a grand family affair, a caravan of four cousin families embarking on an unforgettable journey through the remote and untamed Zanskar Valley. This is the story of creating memories that will echo for a lifetime.
- Trip Route: Leh – Kargil – Zanskar Valley – Goboranjan – Sarchu – Tsomoriri – Pangong Tso – Leh
- Total Days: 10 (August 23rd - September 1st, 2025)
- The Expedition Group: 4 families with cousins, joined by 2 bikes and a Tempo.
🏨 Day 1: Arrival in Leh - The Crucial Acclimatization (August 23rd)
After our flight touched down in Leh, the first order of business was a crucial battle against altitude. At 11,500 feet, proper acclimatization isn’t just a suggestion; it’s the golden rule of Ladakh travel. We checked into our hotel and dedicated the day to rest, allowing our bodies to adjust to the thin, crisp mountain air. This period of calm was essential preparation for the demanding adventure that lay ahead. In the evening, once we felt settled, we took a gentle, exploratory stroll through the Leh market, soaking in the local atmosphere and the palpable energy of this Himalayan town.
🛣️ Day 2: Leh to Kargil - An Unexpected Himalayan Welcome (August 24th)
The day commenced with a light drizzle, less than ideal for mountain driving, but our collective spirit remained undampened.Our journey truly began with a classic Himalayan challenge. A landslide at a checkpoint forced an unexpected detour, reminding us early on that nature dictates the itinerary here.
The revised route unfurled alongside the magnificent Indus River, revealing one of the region’s most stunning geological features: vast purple mountain patches dotted with traditional villages. These vibrant hues, created by mineral deposits over millions of years, painted a breathtaking contrast against the sky. For our two biker companions, the day was a grueling test of endurance, as they faced the rain for nearly the entire journey, finding respite only in the final hour. By evening, we arrived in Kargil, the second-largest town in Ladakh and our official gateway to the remote Zanskar Valley.
🏔️ Day 3: Kargil to Zanskar - Into the Remote Wilderness (August 25th)
An early start from Kargil propelled us toward the Zanskar Valley, one of India’s most isolated and awe-inspiring regions. Our first official stop was the Suru Valley checkpoint to complete the necessary documentation for this restricted area. The day’s undisputed highlight was witnessing the magnificent Ptakchik Glacier, also known as the Drang Drung Glacier, under a dramatic spell of snowfall. This colossal river of ice, one of the largest in the Zanskar region, feeds several vital rivers and is a humbling sight to behold.
The route was a symphony of nature, with numerous waterfalls cascading down rocky cliffs. However, the weather had other plans for our bikers. Heavy snowfall at Rangdum forced them to halt their brave but ultimately futile battle against the elements. They had to abandon their bikes and join us in our vehicles to complete the journey to our sanctuary for the night: Marpa Resort. Located 10 kilometers past Padum near Zangla, the resort became our haven in a landscape that the unexpected snowfall had transformed into a pristine winter wonderland.
❄️ Day 4: A Snowbound Sanctuary at Marpa Resort (August 26th)
Mother Nature decided to test our patience, blanketing the valley in continuous, heavy snowfall. All roads were blocked, confining us to the hotel. What could have been a frustrating delay blossomed into one of the most memorable days of the trip. Our group embraced the impromptu snow day with infectious enthusiasm. Families poured outside to play in the fresh powder, capturing countless photos against the surreal white canvas. This type of snowfall is typically reserved for the deep winter months, making the experience all the more magical.
As the day wore on, we congregated in the hotel’s warm, inviting kitchen. Hours flew by as we immersed ourselves in games—Wolf and Villagers and 3-card poker became instant favorites. These simple, indoor activities fostered a powerful sense of camaraderie, bringing our families closer than ever. The snow finally ceased around 8 PM, rekindling our hopes for the journey to Goboranjan. Despite the deviation from our itinerary, we all agreed this unexpected pause allowed us to truly connect with the raw, untamed beauty of Zanskar.
🏕️ Day 5: Marpa Resort to Goboranjan - A Calculated Risk (August 27th)
At 6 AM, we awoke to a spectacular sight. The valley was bathed in a golden morning light, with the fresh snow on the surrounding peaks creating a postcard-perfect panorama. This brief 30-minute window of clear weather offered stunning photographic opportunities and a surge of optimism.
By 2 PM, we faced a critical decision. Many locals warned that the road to Goboranjan would be impassable after the snowfall. Yet, our entire trip hinged on reaching this sacred mountain. We decided to take the risk. For the first few hours, the drive was surprisingly smooth, bolstering our confidence. However, just 30-40 minutes from our destination, we were met with a massive landslide, completely blocking our path.
What unfolded next was the most adventurous moment of our expedition. Our resourceful driver contacted someone on the other side of the slide and arranged for a Scorpio to meet us. This set the stage for a heart-pounding mini-adventure: crossing the landslide on foot with minimal luggage, then carefully navigating a steep cliff edge to reach the waiting vehicle. This experience tested everyone’s courage and forged an unbreakable team spirit. We finally reached Acko Camp at 8:15 PM, utterly exhausted but exhilarated. We had made it to Goboranjan (Gombo Ranjan), the sacred “God’s Mountain” revered by Zanskar’s Buddhist community—a towering monolith that commands spiritual awe.
🌄 Day 6: Goboranjan to Sarchu - The High Passes’ Reward (August 28th)
Our reward for the previous day’s audacity was the best weather of the entire trip—brilliant sunshine and crystal-clear skies. After our bikes and Tempo Traveller finally reached us around noon, we resumed our journey. The drive from Goboranjan to Sarchu via Shinkula Pass and Baralacha Pass was nothing short of spectacular.
Shinkula Pass (16,580 feet), connecting Zanskar to Himachal Pradesh, was even more beautiful under its fresh blanket of white powder. After crossing Baralacha Pass, we were greeted by the mesmerizing sight of Suraj Tal (Suraj Lake), its deep blue waters framed by emerald green meadows and snow-capped peaks. The straight, open roads in this section provided a welcome reprieve and phenomenal photo opportunities, allowing us to absorb the sheer scale of the Himalayan landscape. We settled in for the night at Red Rock Camp, located 10 kilometers before Sarchu, a strategic spot offering panoramic views of vast green plains ending in a dramatic valley drop.
🏔️ Day 7: Sarchu to Tsomoriri - A Journey Through Geological Time (August 29th)
Blessed with another day of glorious sunshine, we set course for Tsomoriri Lake. This leg of the journey took us through some of Ladakh’s most fascinating geological landscapes. We navigated the famous Gata Loops, a series of 21 hairpin bends that snake up the mountainside. En route to Pang, we discovered natural cone-shaped caves and ancient arch-like rock formations that have miraculously withstood centuries of harsh elements.
Beyond Pang, the terrain transformed into the vast, otherworldly plains of the Changthang plateau. We paused for lunch at Debring Junction before continuing towards the stunning Tsokar Lake, with its mesmerizing blue-green hues. Here, we spent time scanning the shores for the elusive black-necked cranes. Our route then led us through the Puga Valley, renowned for its natural hot springs, before we finally arrived at Kirzok village on the shores of Tsomoriri Lake. Known as “Mountain Lake,” it is India’s largest high-altitude lake entirely within its territory, sitting at a breathtaking 14,835 feet.
🌊 Day 8: Tsomoriri to Pangong Tso - The Adventurous Backside Route (August 30th)
To get from Tsomoriri to Pangong Tso, we opted for the remote and adventurous Chusul route. This lesser-traveled path passes the serene Tso Yaya and Mirpal Tso lake while traversing two significant mountain passes. The highlight was ascending Kaksang La Pass, which offered breathtaking panoramic views of the Changthang plateau. Navigating off-road sections due to Border Roads Organisation (BRO) construction only added to the thrill.
We entered the Pangong Tso area via the “backside,” which gifted us one of the most scenic drives in the world: a 30-kilometer stretch directly along the lake’s shore. Witnessing the constantly shifting colors of Pangong’s water—from deep sapphire to turquoise to jade green—was a mesmerizing, almost spiritual experience that will forever be etched in our memories.
Yaya Tso lake pic
🛍️ Day 9: The Final Pass and a Leh Farewell (August 31st)
After capturing some final morning photos at Pangong, we began our journey back to Leh. The Himalayas had one last surprise for us. As we approached Chang La Pass (17,590 feet), a sudden, intense ten-minute snowfall welcomed us, adding a final dramatic flourish to our crossing of one of the world’s highest motorable passes. Safely on the other side, we descended towards the beautiful Shakti village nestled in the valley below. We stopped for lunch and a visit to the iconic Thiksey Monastery, whose architecture famously resembles the Potala Palace in Lhasa, before finally reaching our hotel in Leh, completing our epic circuit.
Our final evening was a blend of celebration and nostalgia. We explored Leh’s vibrant market, collecting Pashmina shawls, Tibetan jewelry, and other souvenirs. The day culminated in a wonderful dinner at The Tibetan Kitchen, followed by a birthday cake celebration at Bodhisatva German Bakery. We spent the rest of the evening packing, sharing our favorite moments, and reflecting on a journey that had created unbreakable bonds.
✈️ Day 10: Return to Hyderabad (September 1st)
With hearts heavy with nostalgia but minds overflowing with incredible memories, we bid farewell to the mystical land of Ladakh. Our flight back to Hyderabad marked the end of an adventure that had tested our limits, brought our families closer, and revealed some of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.
Final Trip Statistics at a Glance
- Total distance: ~1,200 km
- Highest point: Chang La Pass (17,590 ft)
- Passes crossed: Shinkula La, Baralacha La, Chang La, Kaksang La
- Lakes visited: Tsomoriri, Tso Yaya,Mirpal Tso, Pangong Tso
- Sacred sites: Goboranjan (Gombo Ranjan), Thiksey Monastery
- The Crew: 4 families + 2 bikers
📝 Post-Trip Debrief: Essential Tips & Information
🏥 Health & Safety Tips
High Altitude Precautions:
- Acclimatization is Key: Spend at least one full day resting in Leh (11,500 ft) before ascending further.
- Consider Medication: Carry and consult a doctor about using Diamox (Acetazolamide) for altitude sickness prevention.
- Hydrate Relentlessly: Drink plenty of water (3-4 liters daily) and avoid alcohol, especially in the first few days.
- Recognize AMS Symptoms: Stay vigilant for headaches, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue. Descend if symptoms worsen.
Essential Items to Carry:
- Layered warm clothing, waterproof/windproof outer jacket, and rain gear.
- High-SPF sunscreen, UV-protection sunglasses, and a wide-brimmed hat.
- A comprehensive first-aid kit with basic medications, bandages, and any personal prescriptions.
- Extra fuel cans are non-negotiable, as fuel stations are extremely scarce.
- Emergency food supplies (energy bars, nuts) and sufficient water.
🗺️ Route Summary & Road Conditions
- Leh to Kargil: A well-maintained highway offering spectacular mountain scenery.
- Kargil to Zanskar: A challenging drive on rugged mountain roads, highly dependent on weather conditions.
- Zanskar to Sarchu (via Shinkula): Demanding, rough terrain that rewards with absolutely stunning, raw landscapes.
- Sarchu to Tsomoriri: A mix of paved and off-road sections; requires skilled driving.
- Tsomoriri to Pangong (via Chusul): A remote, adventurous route best suited for experienced drivers in 4x4s.
- Pangong to Leh (via Chang La): Mostly good roads, though the ascent/descent from Chang La can be steep.
🚗 Vehicle Requirements & Permits
- Fuel: Carry multiple jerrycans of extra fuel. Do not rely on finding fuel stations outside of major towns.
- Drivers: Hire experienced local drivers who are intimately familiar with the terrain and unpredictable conditions.
- Permits: Ensure you have all necessary permits for restricted areas like Pangong Tso, Tsomoriri, and the Chusul route. These are typically arranged by local tour operators.
🏨 Our Accommodation Highlights
- Marpa Resort (Zanskar): A remote stay with basic amenities, offering an authentic experience of local Zanskari culture.
- Acko Camp (Goboranjan): Adventure camping at its finest, with unparalleled views of the sacred mountain.
- Red Rock Camp (near Sarchu): Strategically located to provide stunning panoramic views of the valley and plains.
- Homestays at Tsomoriri: The best way to experience traditional Ladakhi hospitality at high altitude.
- Hotels in Leh: A wide range of options with modern amenities and convenient access to the market.