🏍️ Manali to Leh: The Ultimate Motorbike Adventure 🏔️
Riding through the Manali to Leh route is a bucket-list experience for every motorbike enthusiast in India. Our adventure began on this legendary route, but we decided to push the journey further into Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso, crossing some of the highest motorable passes in the world—Khardung La, Baralacha La, Lachulung La, Tanglang La, and Chang La. Each day brought more breathtaking landscapes that demanded to be captured with every twist and turn. Don’t forget your camera! 📸
Trip Route:
Manali – Jispa – Sarchu – Leh – Nubra – Pangong – Leh (1100+ KM)
Total Days:
Dates: 08.09.2018 – 15.09.2018, Total: 8 days
🚲 The Bikes
For this trip, we had four motorbikes shared among six people: two Royal Enfield Himalayans and two Royal Enfield Classics. The Classics were fitted with luggage carriers to hold our backpacks and crucial petrol cans. ⛽ Given the scarcity of fuel stations on this route, carrying extra fuel was a must. With four cans, we made sure to fill up whenever we could, ensuring we never ran out of fuel in remote areas.
⏳ Best Season to Ride
The Manali-Leh highway opens for only three to four months a year, often closed due to heavy snowfall and landslides. The sweet spot for riding is between July and September. We chose to go at the tail end of the season to dodge the crowds and snag better deals on hotels and bike rentals. 🏨
🗓️ Day 1: Travel to Manali & Trip Prep (08.09.2018)
Our adventure started with a flight to Delhi, followed by an overnight bus journey to the picturesque town of Manali. Upon arriving in Manali, our first stop was the local market, where we picked up our bikes—a mix of 2 Royal Enfield Classics and 2 Himalayans, perfect for our group of six. 🚲
We gathered all the necessary documents for the bikes, including RCs, permits, and other important papers. It’s crucial to arrange your permits early as the National Green Tribunal (NGT) only allows 1,200 vehicles per day in an effort to protect the fragile glaciers. 🛂
Before heading out, we got some valuable tips from our motorbike operator. We stocked up on essential accessories like medicines, ropes, gloves, and small oxygen cylinders to prepare for the high altitudes. We were also cautioned to avoid nighttime riding and alcohol, as it could cause dehydration at high altitudes. To prevent Altitude Sickness (AMS), we were advised to take Diamox tablets. 💊
As the day wound down, we explored Manali’s Mall Road, indulging in some local souvenir shopping and enjoying the vibrant atmosphere of the town. 🛍️
🛤️ Day 2: Manali to Jispa – A Ride Through Changing Landscapes
Our journey to Jispa began at 10:30 AM, with the lush green mountains and breathtaking valleys guiding us towards Rohtang Pass. The views were stunning, and just before reaching the pass, we made a quick stop to grab a light meal, giving us the energy for the ride ahead. Once at Rohtang, we paused to capture the incredible scenery, taking some memorable snaps before continuing on our way. 📸
Descending from Rohtang was no easy task. The road was quite challenging due to ongoing repairs by the Border Roads Organization, as they worked to clear landslides. The descent took us nearly two hours, testing our riding skills and patience. However, once we passed the Khoksar check post, the road improved significantly. From there, we rode alongside the beautiful Chenab River, with its stunning riverfront views. As we continued, the landscape began to change—what started as lush greenery soon transformed into rugged, rocky mountains. 🌄
We made a brief stop by the Chenab River to clean our bikes, shoes, and jackets, all of which had been caked in mud during the Rohtang descent. This refreshing break by the river was much needed before we continued our ride.
Although we had initially planned to stop at Keylong, advice from the locals led us to push further to Jispa. Before reaching Jispa, we stopped to refuel our bikes, and that’s when the weather turned. A light drizzle quickly soaked us, and the cold began to seep in, leaving us shivering. If you’re planning this trip, make sure to pack proper rain gear, as mountain weather can change rapidly! 🌧️
With the rain slowing us down, we had to skip lunch and rely on the packed snacks we’d brought along. By the time we reached our hotel in Jispa, it was 6:30 PM, and we were cold, tired, but exhilarated by the journey we had just completed. 🏨
⛰️ Day 3: Jispa to Pang – A Journey Through the High Passes
Waking up to the stunning views of the mountains and the river stream from our hotel in Jispa was the perfect start to the day. Before hitting the road, we spent some time by the banks of the Bhag River, soaking in the serenity of the surroundings. By mid-morning, we began our journey towards Sarchu, eagerly anticipating the rocky mountains and ice-capped peaks that lay ahead. 🌄
The drive to Sarchu was smooth, with well-maintained roads and breathtaking views of the rugged, rocky landscape. We ascended to Baralacha La, standing tall at 4,890 meters (16,040 ft). The climb was challenging, but the sense of achievement when we reached the top was worth it. We arrived in Sarchu around 1:30 PM and took a lunch break, though the small settlement didn’t offer much in terms of accommodation or amenities. 🏞️
Taking advice from the locals, we decided to push ahead to Pang, located at an elevation of 4,600 meters (15,000 ft). The initial stretch of road was good, but as we approached the infamous Gata Loops, the conditions deteriorated. The Gata Loops, with their sharp bends and steep climbs, made for a tough ride, especially for bikers.
Adding to the challenge was a brief hailstorm that hit us mid-ride, making the journey even more difficult. However, the incredible landscapes we passed—dotted with snow-capped peaks and deep valleys—kept our spirits high. Along the way, we crossed Lachung La at 5,079 meters (16,598 ft), marking another high pass conquered on this adventure. ❄️
After several stops along the rough roads, we finally arrived in Pang around 6:00 PM, exhausted both physically and mentally. The temperatures had dropped significantly, nearing zero degrees. Pang, much like Sarchu, offered limited accommodation, so we settled into a small, basic brick house for the night. 🏨
Though the day was taxing, Pang’s clear night sky provided the perfect opportunity for star trail photography for those with a keen eye for the cosmos. 🌌 Despite the tough conditions, the beauty of the landscapes and the thrill of the journey made it a day to remember.
🛣️ Day 4: Pang to Leh – The Road to the High Desert
Our day began with a 9 AM departure from Pang, as we set our sights on Leh. Unlike the previous days, the road to Leh was in excellent condition, smooth and free of any rough patches, making for a comfortable ride. Along the way, we reached Tanglang La, the second-highest motorable road in the world, standing at an impressive 5,328 meters (17,480 ft). 🌍
As we climbed towards Tanglang La, the landscape around us turned barren and desert-like, with not a tree in sight. The vastness of the desert mountains was striking, and just when we thought it couldn’t get any more surreal, we were greeted by a sudden snowfall at the top of Tanglang La. It was a magical moment, standing at such a high altitude with snowflakes swirling around us. ❄️
From Tanglang La, we began our descent towards Rumste, a small village where we finally got mobile signals (only BSNL). The drive from Tanglang La to Rumste was peaceful, with a river flowing alongside the road and tiny grasslands dotting the landscape. The contrast of the river’s gentle flow against the towering mountains made the ride even more picturesque. 🏞️
As we approached Upshi, the landscape changed dramatically. The barren desert gave way to tall trees and lush vegetation along the riverbanks, signaling that we were nearing Leh-Ladakh. The most striking feature of this stretch was the spectacular view of the red and purple mountains, with the water in the streams reflecting these vivid colors. It felt like we had entered a painter’s palette, with nature showing off its most vibrant hues. 🎨
At Upshi, we caught our first glimpse of the mighty Indus River and the beautiful Kashmir Valley. We stopped here for lunch, taking in the incredible views before continuing our journey to Leh. On the way, we passed the famous Shey and Thiksey monasteries, iconic landmarks of the region, and enjoyed the ever-present views of the Indus Valley. ⛩️
We reached our hotel in Leh by 3 PM, ready for some much-needed rest after the day’s adventure. In the evening, we took a relaxing stroll through Leh’s bustling mall market, soaking in the local culture and ending the day on a peaceful note. 🛍️
🗺️ Day 5: Exploring Leh – Permits, Scenic Spots, and Prepping for the Next Leg
Our day began leisurely around 10 AM, as we set out to apply for permits for the next phase of our journey to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso. We worked with a local bike operator to handle the paperwork, ensuring we were all set for the high-altitude adventure ahead. 🛂
Once the permits were sorted, we headed to one of Leh’s must-see spots: Magnetic Hill, a curious place where the landscape creates an optical illusion that makes vehicles appear to defy gravity. Not far from there, we visited the stunning confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers. The sight of these two rivers meeting, with their distinct colors flowing side by side, was truly mesmerizing. 🌊
After soaking in the natural beauty, we made our way to the iconic Shanti Stupa, a white-domed monument perched atop a hill, offering panoramic views of Leh and the surrounding mountains. The serenity of the place and the incredible vistas made it a peaceful and reflective stop on our journey. ⛩️
By 3 PM, we returned to the hotel to rest and recharge for the next day’s adventure. After a couple of hours of relaxation, we headed out to Leh’s vibrant market around 6 PM, where we picked up a few local souvenirs to take home. 🛍️
As night fell, it was time to swap out our existing bikes for Royal Enfield Standards, complete with the necessary local permits for the next leg of our trip. We topped up our fuel tanks to ensure we were ready to hit the road the next morning, excited for what lay ahead. 🏍️
🏞️ Day 6: Leh to Nubra Valley – From High Passes to Desert Sand Dunes
We had a relaxed start to the day, leaving our hotel around 10:00 AM. Before hitting the road, we grabbed some fresh fruits and bakery items to keep us fueled for the journey. Our destination: the stunning Nubra Valley. But first, we had to conquer Khardung La Pass, the world’s highest all-weather motorable road, standing at an impressive 5,359 meters (17,582 ft). 🏔️
We reached Khardung La around 12:30 PM and took a brief 15-minute stop to snap some photos at the top. While the views were spectacular, the altitude had us on edge, so we made sure not to linger too long to avoid the effects of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). If you’re visiting, remember to assess how you’re feeling at Khardung La—if you’re uncomfortable, it’s best to descend quickly. 💡
The descent from Khardung La was a pleasant ride, with well-maintained roads and sweeping views of the valleys below. Our next stop was at Kalsar, where the valley stretched out dramatically, offering breathtaking vistas. In some areas, the valley widened up to 5 kilometers, creating a truly awe-inspiring landscape. 🌄
Our journey continued to the famous Diskit Monastery, a peaceful and spiritual site with panoramic views of the Nubra Valley. After a quick visit, we dropped off our backpacks and headed straight for Hunder, home to the unique sand dunes of Nubra. Here, we encountered the rare double-humped camels, a species native to Central Asia. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even take a camel ride across the desert-like landscape. 🐫
As the day wound down, we attended a vibrant Himalayan cultural dance program, which gave us a glimpse into the rich traditions of the region. To end the evening, we enjoyed a cozy campfire and dinner at Bonfire Restaurant, a perfect conclusion to a day filled with adventure and incredible sights. 🔥
🌊 Day 7: Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso – A Journey to the Crystal Lake
We kicked off Day 7 with an early start, leaving Nubra Valley and heading towards the breathtaking Pangong Tso. The journey was long, but we decided to take it slow, allowing ourselves some much-needed rest after several days of intense riding. The road to Pangong took us through some of the most scenic landscapes we’ve seen, with towering mountains and vast open spaces that seemed to stretch forever. 🏞️
After hours of riding, we finally arrived at Pangong Tso, the famous lake known for its crystal-clear blue waters that seem to change color with the sunlight. We spent the rest of the day relaxing by the lake, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and enjoying the serene beauty of the surroundings. The cold breeze coming off the water was refreshing, and the stillness of the place made it feel like we had stepped into another world. 🏔️
❄️ Day 8: Pangong to Leh – From Freezing Heights to Fond Farewells
We started the day early once again, leaving Pangong Tso after a hearty breakfast. The morning ride was smooth until we began the climb to Chang La Pass, one of the highest motorable passes in the world at 5,360 meters (17,590 ft). This was by far the coldest place we had encountered on the trip, with temperatures well below freezing. Our fingers were numb from the icy winds, and even our driving gloves offered little protection from the cold. 🥶
We made a couple of stops along the way to warm up and regain feeling in our hands. Despite the cold, the views at Chang La were worth every chilling moment. The snow-covered landscape was a sight to behold, and we couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty around us.
As we descended from Chang La, we passed through the picturesque village of Shakthi, nestled in a valley with incredible landscape views. The road improved as we approached Upshi, and soon enough, we were back in Leh, where our journey had begun. 🏞️
In the evening, we headed out to the market one last time for some final souvenir shopping, and then we returned our beloved bikes. The trip ended with a celebratory dinner at Tibetan Kitchen, where we reflected on the unforgettable experiences we had shared. 🍽️
✈️ Day 9: The Return Journey
With heavy hearts, we bid farewell to Leh the next morning, flying back home with memories of one of the most unforgettable trips of our lives. 🛫
🩺 Health & Safety Tips
High altitudes come with risks like Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), so be sure to carry necessary medications like Diamox. Acclimatize well and be prepared—two of our team members experienced symptoms but recovered quickly.
🛣️ Roads and the BRO
Hats off to the Border Roads Organization (BRO), who maintain these treacherous mountain roads. 🚧 About 80% of our journey was on well-maintained roads, despite occasional challenges like landslides. The BRO works around the clock to keep these routes accessible.
🏍️ Bikes and Permits
Make sure to book your bikes and permits in advance to avoid any hiccups. We rented our Royal Enfield Himalayans for ₹1500/day and the Classics for ₹1200/day. Permits are crucial as you’ll pass through numerous checkpoints along the way.
🍲 Food Stops and Local Delicacies
During our motorbike adventure, we had the chance to stop at some amazing places for food. Here are a few spots that you absolutely must try if you’re traveling through Leh and Manali:
- Rendezvous Cafe Leh & German Bakery – A cozy spot in Leh known for its delicious baked goods and great coffee. 🍰
- Punjabi Dhaba (Leh Market) – If you’re craving authentic Punjabi flavors, this is the place to go! 🥘
- Cross Roads (Leh) – Offers a mix of local and international dishes with a fantastic view. 🍜
- Chopsticks (Manali) – A popular choice for its Asian cuisine, particularly their noodles and momos. 🍜
- Tibetan Kitchen (Leh) – The perfect place to indulge in Tibetan delicacies like momos and thukpa. 🥟
- Bonfire (Nubra Valley) – A great place to relax by the fire and enjoy a hearty meal after a long day of exploring. 🔥
These spots became our favorites along the journey, offering both comfort and great food after long rides through the mountains.
Our Table Picture at Rendezvous Cafe in Leh:
🤝 The People & Hospitality
The warmth and hospitality of the locals made the trip even more special. From homestays to cozy guesthouses, we felt right at home everywhere we went.
🏨 Accommodation
In major stops like Leh and Manali, you’ll find comfortable hotels, but in remote areas, expect guesthouses or tents. We were fortunate to secure great stays throughout the trip.
🏞️ Group Memories
Our adventure wouldn’t have been the same without this amazing group. Here’s our group photo at the iconic Shanti Stupa. A special shoutout to Vikas Reddy for planning this trip!
This trip was truly an unforgettable journey through some of the most stunning landscapes in the world. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or just starting out, the Manali to Leh road will leave you with memories to last a lifetime.